FOOD & DRINK

I get asked this question more than almost anything else, usually by someone standing on the Royal Mile at 8:45am with a suitcase they haven’t dropped off yet, looking slightly panicked. So here’s the honest version, not the version written by someone who flew in for four days and called everything “charming.” I moved to … Read more

I moved here for what I told everyone would be a year, maybe two. That was over a decade ago. In that time I’ve lived in Marchmont, where the beer gardens don’t really exist and everyone drinks in tiny front rooms instead, and Leith, where they’ve multiplied so fast I’m still finding new ones. I’ve … Read more